Drywall, a wall or ceiling finishing material, has a core of gypsum (plaster) sandwiched between layers of heavy paper, a finished surface and a rough surface. Drywall gets its name, as an alternative to plaster that is wet when applied. Known by a few terms and trade names, gypsum board, wallboard and Sheetrock (which is a trade name), drywall has become the standard finishing product for new home construction, as it is far less labor intensive and does not require skilled labor compared to lathe and plaster finishing.

Sheets of drywall usually have the long edges tapered in order to allow for taping and finishing the seams with drywall joint compound. The ends of drywall panels are not tapered and it is possible to purchase drywall having all the edges flat rather than tapered.

Drywall panels are available in four thicknesses; 1/4′, 3/8′, 1/2′ and 5/8′. Standard sheets of drywall are 4′ wide and 8′, 10′ and 12′ long, but they are also available in 6′, 7′ and 16′ lengths. You will pay a high premium for nonstandard lengths. Although the most common drywall sheets are 1/2′ thick, check with your local building department to verify the requirements in your neighborhood. If you are applying drywall to a finished surface, as a new surface finish you can use 1/4′ or 3/8′, however if it is the only material on the wall or ceiling you should use a minimum of 1/2″ if you have 16′ centers on your studs or ceiling beams and 5/8′ if you have centers that are farther apart than 16′. If you are wrapping a curved wall, you can use multi-layers of 1/4′ or 3/8′.

In order to wrap a curved wall, nail one end of the drywall in place. Use a water sprayer and moisten the sheet of drywall, slowly force the drywall to take the shape nailing or screwing as you go. Nails and screws, must not break the paper surface. Double screw or nail on the edges. When you have completed the first layer, you can add a second layer to create a minimum thickness of 1/2″.

For more information on using drywall, fasteners and taping follow the link below.

Author: Bill Prudehome

Drywall, Fasteners, Taping

For information on other home renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters

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Painting drywall is not a hard process, but it can be time consuming and a little picky. Because your drywall can be finicky, it’s best to first have the drywall hung by a trusted local drywall contractor in your local area. Once they have done their job as far as hanging your drywall and leaving you with a smooth, clean surface, you’ll be able to paint your drywall using a few easy, simple steps. Painting drywall can make a huge different in the atmosphere in your home, and is a cost effective way to renovate.

First, start with the right surface. This means that if it is new drywall hung by a drywall contractor, you must cover the screw indentations and any other seams that are not smooth. Get some spackle from your local hardware store and carefully cover them up with a spatula. Make sure to use a fine grit sand paper in order to smooth the spackle’s edges out.

Once they are completely smooth and hidden, you can continue. Buy good quality brushes and rollers that will help your painting go faster and look more professional. Make sure you consider the texture of the rollers when choosing them. Make sure to first apply a primer so that the paint will look smoother and more glossy when you apply it. Primers goes on quickly and will cut down on frustration later, so don’t skip it, especially if it’s brand new drywall.

Remember to use painters tape to mask off any areas you don’t want paint on, such as edges and doorways. This way you’ll ensure a mess free and easy application.

Author: Billings Farnsworth

Drywall Xchange (http://drywallxchange.com/) offers information on drywall contractors in Albany NY. Billings Farnsworth is a freelance writer.

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Handy homeowners who want to install their own drywall to finish basements or attics will benefit from a few basic tips before beginning this project. The first step should always be to check with local building codes to ensure that the drywall used is the appropriate thickness for the area. Measuring is another important step to ensure that the amount of drywall purchased will be the correct amount for the area requiring coverage.

Along with the drywall itself, it is also important to purchase enough supplies. This might include approximately seven pounds of nails, five gallons of joint compound and 500 feet of tape for 1000 square feet of drywall installed. When in doubt about how much to buy, it is always wise to consult with a professional at the store who can offer assistance with measuring and purchasing.

Once the correct amount of drywall is purchased and delivered, it will be time to begin the installation process. Many find that putting the drywall up is the easy part; taping the joints becomes infinitely more complex, however. In fact, some find that hiring a professional to apply the tape after the drywall is installed is a more cost-effective way to get a professional finish on a drywall project.

In this instance, the homeowner puts the drywall in place and fastens it to the frame with nails or screws specifically designed for this material. The professional contractor then comes in to tape the joints and provide any other repairs or installation as needed.

Drywall is an essential part of finishing a space in the home. Understanding how to purchase and install the material will help keep the cost down for many homeowners.

Author: Billings Farnsworth

Drywall Xchange (http://drywallxchange.com) are your drywall contractors in Albany NY. Billings Farnsworth is a freelance writer.

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The best primer for bare drywall depends on what expectations you have from the paint you will apply over it. You have a few options, the short answer is – primer is not the best option for new drywall, a drywall sealer such as Zinsser Gardz is or Zinsser Drywall Primer sealer. However, keep in mind like any product, there are many differences in quality and features.

It’s best to decide what you expect out of the paint you will be putting over the bare drywall. Some people paint to simply freshen up a room with no other expectations such as:

1) hanging wallpaper at a later date or

2) having the option to wipe,

3) wash,

4) scrub the walls or

5) in kids rooms being able to remove crayon and permanent marker,

6) ability to repeatedly remove taped-up posters and pictures and

7) to apply and remove masking tape for a wild color scheme of stripes and stars,

applying finish paint such as eggshell or semi-gloss,

9) high traffic areas and

10) in rooms or areas with large amounts of window glare.

Whatever your expectations are for finish paints – washability and scrubabilty features and the items listed above are dependent on the basecoat beneath the top coat.

It’s important to understand the different capabilities of wall primers. Be sure to read the label carefully and determine if a particular primer is best suited for your project. It’s important the primer is also compatible with your finish coat. Be sure to ask your paint store representative if you are unsure.

Jack

Author: Jack Pauhl

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Drywall projects may seem intimidating, but with the right tools and skills, it is actually quite simple. The materials you need include a scraper, putty, sandpaper, and a putty trial.

The first step in any drywall project is to sand down your existing walls, in order to make them smooth and lacking of any roughness. Once the walls are sanded, wipe them down to ensure that any remaining dust is gone. When the surface is completely smooth, you have completed the initial function.

Odds are that you may have a few holes in some places around your wall. Filling the holes is easy if you utilize your putty trial and scraper. You may not be able to fill the hole with only one coating, so be prepared to go over one hole multiple times.

After the holes are fixed, you should run over the wall with sandpaper and a wash once more to make sure everything is smooth. Now it is appropriate to put in the drywall, which should fit in perfectly against the non-rough walls.

With the drywall in place, you can paint it any color you like, unless you prefer the natural color of drywall. Like filling the holes, paint requires more than one coat for maximum visibility. Any fixtures that you implement into your rooms should complement the paint. Although you may be thinking in the now, you will probably eventually sell your home, and the better it looks, the more valuable it is.

The cost of a drywall project is surprisingly cheap, costing only around one hundred and fifty dollars. If you employ somebody to do the project for you, however, the cost would be many times higher. Do it yourself is not only a great way to increase your personal mechanical skills, but also a method to save money.

Author: Justin Kander

Justin Kander works with http://www.thehardwarecity.com to provide home hardware supplies at low prices.

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If you are contemplating a home renovation project that involves drywall taping then there is something that you need to be aware of and pay strict attention to.

The compound used to cover drywall joints creates a very fine and highly abrasive dust when dry and then sanded. Have you ever seen a professional drywall taper using a power sander? I doubt it. If you use a power sander to level drywall compound the dust will definitely find its way into the motor windings and bearings and you can write the tool off in a matter of minutes.

Not using power tools to sand drywall compound may seem obvious, but there are other motors in your home that can also be affected by the drywall compound dust.

If you have a central air furnace or air conditioning system the dust will be sucked into the return air vents and although a lot of the dust will get trapped in the filter a portion will make it through the filter to the fan motor and the bearings on any pulleys that may be within the system. Other motors or bearings that can be easily affected are located in bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans.

In the case of central air conditioning systems the dust will land on the coils and be washed down into the condensation drain lines where it will solidify and eventually block the free flow of the water.

Window air conditioners will draw the dust through the exhaust portion of the unit and clog filters and damage motors and bearings.

Using a home vacuum rather than an industrial vac to clean up the drywall compound dust will damage any of the moving parts and the motor.

If drywall compound dust lands on fine furniture or hardwood floors be extremely cautious in the methods that you use to clean up as the dust will leave scratch marks on lacquer or polyurethane finishes. The same situation applies to products made from acrylics such as bathtubs and bathtub and shower enclosures.

Last, but by no means least, you should always wear a dust mask and goggles when sanding drywall compound.

Author: Bill Prudehome

For additional information on renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters

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Once you have completed the main construction work you will be ready to consider dry wall finishes. Some prefer to keep a smooth finish and then either paint or paper. Some may opt for a textured finish to add an individual character to the room and to add some interest to a large plain wall. If you decide that you want to have a textured finish you have a choice of equipment. The size of the area that you are going to be treating may well be a contributing factor when making your choice. There are two different basic types of drywall texture machines and one of them will be certain to make your arms ache if you are considering a particularly large area.

The first, and most basic of the two machines is the hopper style machine. A large hopper is fixed to the top of a basic style spray gun. This is then loaded with the liquid texture mix and sprayed onto the wall. Although this is an ideal option for the do-it-yourself enthusiast you must consider the weight of the equipment plus the weight of the texture mixture and the length of time that you will have to hold this. If you have more than a couple of rooms to complete you may end up with aching arms which could compromise the end result. These units, however, are very economical and must not be dismissed. These drywall texture machines are readily available from DIY stores or drywall equipment suppliers and are not too expensive. If you have the time and energy available then they can be an economical and successful option.

Hopper drywall texture machines do require a little practice. The end result will depend on a variety of factors. If you want to achieve an orange peel, or splatter effect, you will need to use a light and runny mix and a high air pressure. You can then spray this onto the wall to create a light splatter effect. The thicker the mixture and the lower the pressure the bigger the splatters! You could then knockdown the peaks of these to give a slightly flattened effect. The choice is yours. You must, however, be consistent as any fluctuations in your style of application will be obvious on a large wall. This is one of the reasons why the hopper system is really only good for smaller areas… it is not easy to be consistent when you arms are starting to ache!

The next step up from the hopper system is trolley mounted dry wall texture machines. These have a larger tank and built in mixer. It is possible to hire these from DIY and rental stores, but it is also quite a good idea to enlist the help of a professional. He will bring his own equipment and expertise to the job and the difference, particularly if you are talking about a large and highly visible area, may be appreciated.

Author: Wendy Pan

Wendy Pan is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about drywall texture machines, please visit Drywall Contractors Online for current articles and discussions.

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Mold is a common occurrence around the home, especially in damp places such as bathrooms and basements. It grows and thrives on moisture, so it is important to keep a watchful eye on moisture issues around the house.

Many of the mold problems are the results of flooding, leaky roofs, leaking pipes, or weather damage. Many times you can see mold growing in moist areas, but many times it goes unseen. Unfortunately our walls are a great hiding place. You may not know for awhile that the roof is leaking into the walls, or that there is a leaky pipe.

Drywall or sheetrock will mold. If you have water running down inside the walls, or standing water on the floor, the walls can start to mold. Many times you will find drywall mold under the baseboard of a wall if there was previously some flooding. If you do notice mold, it needs to be taken care of right away. It will grow and spread if not dealt with.

There are many tell-tale signs of drywall mold. Keep an eye out for discoloration on the walls, pealing and cracking paint, bulges in the paint and a musty odor. If you notice any of these, you may have a mold problem. Besides doing damage to your home, mold can also be hazardous to your health.

Mold can increase the symptoms of those who suffer from asthma and allergies. It can also cause shortness of breath, respiratory issues, burning eyes, irritation of the nose and throat, headaches, and memory loss. Aged adults and young children seem to be more susceptible to the health effects of mold.

Mold destroys homes and health, and is something that needs to be removed right away. Many people try to scrub it away with harsh chemicals, but it rarely is gone long. If you’ve tried to get rid of your mold issue, but haven’t had any success, then you are going to want to check out the following.

Author: Tom R Ryan

For an easy and all-natural way to remove mold, be sure to click here now!

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Drywall Application & Finishing – Part 1 “Boarding”

Tools required:

Tape measure- minimum 16 foot. Cost $10.

Knife- locking blade, preferably a single, replaceable blade. Cost $6.

Keyhole saw. Cost $10.

Drywall hatchet/hammer- a knurled head (avoids slipping off nail), lightweight. Cost approximately $30.

Tool Belt- has pockets for all your tools, preferably has a metal loop for the hatchet and one or two nail pouches. Cost approximately $60.

Screw-gun, 4000 rpm, Phillips head (magnetized)and extension cord. Cost approximately $50 – $90.

Drywall Nails, 1 1/4′, drywall screws, 1 1/4′ & 2″. Purchase approximately 10 lbs of each per thousand square feet of floor area. If you are going to do multiple projects, purchase nails & screws by the case (more conomical).

TOOL TIP: purchase quality tools, you will use them a lot and they will serve you well throughout your project(s).

The first step in the Drywall project is to order the board. Drywall/gypsum board/gyproc, is available in 4 foot wide sheets varying in length from8 feet, 10 feet, 12 feetand 14 feet. To get your “board count”, go through each room measuring each wall and ceiling. Count the sheets required to cover the full length of the wall or ceiling. Always measure across the studs or floor joists, not in the same direction as the wood members.

Example: a room 11′-6″ by 10′, the ceiling will need two 4′ x 12′ sheets plus 1/2 (2′ x 12′), count 2-12′ plus 1-8′ (the 2′ strip). Two walls of length 11′-6″ require 2-12′ sheets each. Count 4-12′. One wall of length 10′ requires 2-10′ sheets. The remaining wall of 10′ length, which has a doorway and may have a closet, can be covered using 8′ sheets. Count 2-8′ plus the closet if necessary. Total “board count” for this room: 6-12′, 2-10′, 3-8′, plus closet (usually two 8′ sheets will do).

The above example gives you an idea of how to do the board count. In the case of a larger room which may be more than 14′ across, you will need two or three sheets per span. In this case, try to cover with as few joints as possible. The less joints, the less taping later. If you have a room that is 18′ span, count 1-12′ plus 1-6′ (half of a 12′). Then the next row will have the joint at the opposite end. Always stagger joints as far as possible from each other. In other words, run the 12′ sheet from one end, fill the 6′ part with the half sheet, then start at this end with the next 12′ sheet so that the joints are separated nicely. Walls should be covered in the same fashion. Try to keep wall joints as far as possible from windows. When light shines on the wall through a window, the joints are more noticeable.

Of course, you will have the insulation and vapor barrier installed ready for the drywall. Need I mention, the electrical and plumbing have been installed and inspected. You are now ready to apply the drywall.

See thenext installment, Part-2, “Cutting and Nailing”

Author: Dan Tiki

Question or Comment? contact me at: danntiki@gmail.com

To Your Success

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Finishing drywall is a step-by-step process, like many other construction and home improvement projects. To achieve a perfect appearance with drywall, the ambitious homeowner or drywall professional starts by assembling the correct tools and material, including tray, sandpaper, scraper and joint putty. It is a good idea to have some trial putty ready just before beginning the project.

Start the drywall finishing process by sanding the walls to remove lumps and uneven spots. A drywall sander will make this task much easier and should produce more consistent results. Tip: The entire surface must be dry before sanding begins. Damp surfaces tend to shred and tear. It is very important that the wall be wiped down thoroughly after sanding, so that no elements of sand/dust remain. It is very important that the surface appears to be very clean and the color appears to be consistent.

Hole should be filled with putty, using the scraper to get a smooth surface. Extra putty can be used to fill deeper holes and imperfections, but it is very important that the process be repeated until the entire surface is smooth. A bit of extra time spent on this step should give better results.

After following these simple steps carefully, paint can be applied. But the homeowner who decides to finish the drywall should make sure that all the putty surfaces are dry and the entire wall is clean before any paint is applied. Sandpaper residue and drywall dust will keep the paint from adhering to the wall as it should. Most of those with experience in drywall finishing use two coats of paint to get proper coverage and color consistency. Tip: Take plenty of time to shield floors and other areas that are not to be painted.

It is very important that patience be part of the finishing/painting process, because it may be necessary to place furniture, curtains against the surface. The finish coat of paint should be completely dry before any furniture is rearranged, draperies are installed etc. It is at this point that some homeowners choose to do more than simply paint the walls. Some people choose to add texture with special, thicker paints or plaster-like materials that can be swirled or roughed up.

Once the drywall finishing is complete and paint or other surface material is applied to give the room color, it is time to use some creative thinking to provide the room with the right atmosphere. New draperies or curtains, carefully chosen for color and design, can add just the correct touch. Contrast and balance are very important at this stage of the process. Flowers and vases can be selected to complement the wall colors as well.

The finishing process may cost very little to complete, if the homeowner is careful to follow the steps. Tool and material cost may be less than $100 in many cases, depending on the condition of the original wall. But some planning and patience during the process can add significant value to the home. If the homeowner has a few dollars available to make home improvements, drywall finishing and painting can add value without major expense. Drywall finishing is a simple task, though it can be time consuming. But the time and money spent should be repaid many times over.

Author: Greg K. Hansward

Greg Hansward frequently publishes long articles on news about how to install drywall. You can have a look at his abstracts on types of drywall at http://www.insidewoodworking.com and many different sources for types of drywall tips.

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